The good news about paint is that you can clean it out and start over. Larger surface areas are the most difficult to clean up smoothly and to get to dry evenly. The final insight I’ll give in regards to actually painting is that you need to be diligent and patient with the larger areas like the cherry bombs, weights, and lines on the sole of this Cameron. As you get better at painting, you’ll figure out what you can get away with and how to work around difficult areas. This is really good advice, so keep it in mind as you get started. One tip is to start in the middle and work out. It can get tricky when you have a lot of detail like this Scotty Cameron. This approach ensures that I’ll have a thick layer of paint in every area. The picture above is what my projects tend to look like after applying paint. One technique I’ve used is to “drag” the bubbles into a spot outside of the painted area and clean it off after it dries. The key is to make sure you work all of the bubbles out of the area you want painted. This is especially noticeable with translucent paints. It’s important to make sure you have a thick layer of paint, but with lots of paint comes a risk for bubbles. Remember, the more excess paint you have, the more you have to clean up. I like to use a toothpick to generously apply paint to the surface without going overboard. PaintingĪs mentioned before, there are a million different ways to paint a golf club, and any one can work. After all cleaning, make sure the putter is completely bone dry. I sometimes scrub the putter with a toothbrush and dish soap to make sure the metal is free of any grease. Make sure your club is free of paint and acetone at this point or else your paint may struggle to properly adhere to the metal. Pro tip: wear latex gloves when working with the acetone. Just use a q-tip with clean acetone and smoothly wipe the streaks away. You may also notice the putter looking streaky in areas from the acetone and paint residue. Once the bulk of the paint is out, you can use the q-tips to mop up the bits of paint and acetone left behind. Patience and being thorough is a necessity during this step. I have heard of others using high-grade paint remover but I haven’t gone that route. Just keep scraping and soaking, scraping and soaking, scraping and soaking. After a good soak, you may need to use a little elbow grease to scrape the paint out. If I can’t, I score the paint to allow the acetone to soak in more. I make sure all of the painted areas are submerged and let the acetone do the work.Īfter the acetone has had some time to soak, I use the metal pick to see if I can scrape paint away. What I do is soak the club in a metal bowl of acetone for an extended period of time. In some cases this is a breeze and in others it’s a tough process. Of course, you will have to remove the old paintfill on your club first. It also gives you flexibility with drying positions.Īs with any painting project, a nice clean surface is an absolute must. *The wood block is not required, but it makes for a good work surface. Why make your club look like a cheap arts and crafts project? Others use nail polish, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen a “nail polish job” look good. I’ve tried acrylic paints, but they do not hold up well on the course. My understanding is that these are typically a paint with a hard epoxy mixed in it or enamel paint that gets baked on for quicker, harder drying. Most OEM clubs have very solid paints in them. I can’t stress enough how much I rely on enamel paint.
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